Welcome to my page. I was looking to create something fun to drive and different from the normal, but not over the top ridiculous. So this is what I started with. I paid $500 for a 1990 Suzuki Sidekick with the engine in a box (previous owner spun a bearing). As I was looking at the engine bay I started thinking... wouldn't it be neat if I could double the stock power, wait better yet I think a Rotary would fit in there. Once the rotary was in I couldn't stop, so a turbo was added. The results are one fun car to drive. Note: All of the work was been done by myself. I don't have a shop, or any special tools, or an unlimited budget. I knew the Rotary would provide the power I was looking for without the torque that typically breaks things. And so it began:

Pretty much anyone can build a (Insert the muscle car of your choice here)... I wanted something different. I knew I'd have to make parts, figure out how to make things work... even do a little fabrication. That's part of the fun of a project like this. It's not rocket science and I don't have a shop or unlimited resources. All of the work was done by myself over a period of time. Things such as pressing in the bearings to the new motor was done by a shop, But brackets, mounts, design was all done in my garage with a standard tools.

The Mazda Rotary is such a wonderful engine... so enjoy my page. 

Project Zuki has gone through 3 phases... They are all outlined here:

We'll color coordinate these phases to make reading easier. You'll also understand the color combinations are we get through this project.

What am I trying to do?

Provide a performance minded grocery getter that can be used as a daily driver.... or basically 'SOMETHING DIFFERENT' but not too wild!

The sound you hear is from a Rotary engine (no not mine). I'd like to keep the volume down, but the Rotary has a very distinctive sound.   

PROJECT ZUKI GOALS

Motor Replacement (looking to DOUBLE the Stock engine Horsepower)

Swap the Zuki Motor with something LIGHT and more powerful Mazda Rotary!

From the time I bought the Zuki I knew I wanted MORE power than  the stocker. The Stock Motor is a 1.6 liter 80HP 8 valve motor.

My Suzuki JX weights from 2194 lbs. (in 4WD trim). 27.5 lbs. per HP

CLICK HERE FOR A DEMONSTRATION OF HOW A ROTARY MOTOR WORKS (May be slow loading this page)

(Estimating 2200 lbs. for the project with the RX7 motor installed. (Front Axle removed (70-100 lbs.), Transfer case (70-100 lbs.), should equal the difference in the Suzuki motor and the Mazda running gear. Estimating 175 HP for the new motor combo (250+ with NOS) yields 12.5 lbs. per HP and 8.8 on the bottle. HP could be closer to 200 and I plan to upgrade the fuel injectors to 550cc turbo units (up from the stock 460cc injectors). The addition of the header, free flow exhaust, air pump and Haltech fuel injection controller should be able to make this number a reality.

After carefully examining the engine compartment I knew the engine I wanted. A Mazda Rotary! Having previously owned a RX car I knew the potential of these motors. They are light, love to rev and would be the perfect combination. 

I located a 88' Mazda RX-7 with a banged up body... but a great motor. 

So Phase 1 begins:

The Vehicle weighs 2800 lbs. (much more than the Zuki). It has a 13B Rotary engine with 146 HP in stock form which nearly meets my original goal of doubling the stock Zuki power. 

This Suzuki Sidekick has had a rough life. I found it in the local paper. The motor was in a box as it had spun a bearing and had been taken apart. The body was rough, how rough? Well the passenger side looked okay, but the drivers side had a crease on the rear section, The door was totally broken off it's hinges. The front hinges were broken off. The front fender was smashed. Both bumpers had damage. It was a tough choice... but I bought it anyway. After a tow ride home I started on the planning. 

Planning stages (3/2000):

(Planning and Areas of Concern and Solutions )

EFI: The EFI computer seems to be in multiple parts on the car. The Engine has Direct ignition which is separate from the EFI computer and Emissions computer. I'd like to keep everything intact... But as a backup plan a SideDraft Carb will be used. The horsepower would be greater, but the emissions will be worse. 

• A HALTECH E6K unit will be used. Though the price of this unit will significantly raise the budget of this swap. It is necessary to achieve my goals here. The air pump will be removed and the AFC blocked off. I am also planning to go with a header. Originally I didn't want to use a header, but this will allow for more clearance on the exhaust side of the motor which is a little tight.

Transmission: The Stock RX7 Trans is LONG. The Shifter sits at the REAR of the transmission. The Shifter is mounted on a BallSocket type of housing and bolted to the transmission. The Shift rod runs Horizontally into the transmission. It appears that I can shorten the shift rod and housing and bolt the shifter forward. Perhaps as much as 10" which should put it pretty close to the original shift hole in the Zuki. 

• I was able to leave the transmission as is. The shifted location moved back about 5" but it is very useable.

Clutch: The Zuki clutch is cable operated, The RX-7 uses a Hydraulic unit. I plan on using the RX-7 master cylinder to the Zuki pedal. Should be straight forward. 

• The master cylinder is in. I used the stock pedal and did some reworking of the linkage to operate the new clutch master cylinder.

Speedometer: The RX-7 SpeedO head unit will be mated to the Zuki Faceplate. 

• The factory Suzuki Speedo cable went right into the stock RX7 transmission. The speed may be off which will be dealt with once the wheels and tires are swapped. On the subject of gauges, I am using the Factory Zuki gauge cluster with a trio set of gauges from Auto Gage mounted under the stereo in the center console.

Tach: Not sure on this one. A Mazda fires 2 spark plugs for each rotor x 2 x 3 sides of the rotor = 12 plugs fired per 1 RPM. Use the RX7 head unit with the Zuki faceplate? 

• This wasn't as tough as I thought. Doing the math. A 4 cylinder fires 1 plug per rev or 1:1. The Rotary fires 3 times per rotor rev (for each rotor). Since the tach measures the eccentric shaft rpm which turns 3x faster than the rotors this equals 3:3 or 1:1. So connecting the tach directly to the output of one of the rotor coils it all works perfectly.  

Exhaust: I'll use the STOCK unit, unless it won't clear the front Axle. I plan on keeping the 4 wheel drive function so I will need it to clear it. If it doesn't a header will be used. Probably use a single 2-1/2" Exhaust running to dual tips (I don't want it too loud). 

• The 4 wheel drive is GONE. I had to remove the front axle to get the motor to sit down in the engine bay. This is okay because I wasn't sure what I would use for a transfer case. I just recently decided to go with a header.

Motor Mounts: The Zuki has a FRAME, Yes it has a FULL FRAME. The Motor mounts will be welded to it and I will use the STOCK RX7 mounts. The Motor will sit BEHIND the front axle. 

Transfer Case: The Stock Zuki Transfer case will not work. I will look at other 4x4's for something else to use. Alternate methods, Full Time 4 wheel drive, using the hubs as the disengagement.

• This wasn't done as the 4 wheel drive is gone. I picked up some 2WD front Suzuki Sidekick spindles and rotors.

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